Kisameet Glacial Clay Facial Mud Masque

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Ingredients

%

Phase A

Deionized water
35.30

Endinol SCS (Coast Southwest) (Sodium coco-sulfate)
8.00

NaOH (30% aq.) w/w (Sodium hydroxide)
q.s.

Phase B

Jojoba Oil (Coast Southwest, Jojoba Desert) (Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil)
8.00

Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil)
9.00

Amla Oil (Coast Southwest, International Cosmetic Science Centre) (Emblica officinalis (amla) fruit extract and sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil)
9.00

Rose Hip Oil (Coast Southwest, International Cosmetic Science Centre) (Rose canina (rose hip) seed oil)
4.00

Yangu Oil (Coast Southwest, International Cosmetic Science Centre) (Calodendrum capense seed oil)
4.00

Glossamer L6600 (Coast Southwest, Inc.)(Brassica campestris/aleurites fordi oil copolymer)
1.00

Phase C

Olivatis 19 (Coast Southwest, Inc., Medolla Iberia) (Olive oil polyglyceryl-6 esters, phospholipids)
2.00

Olivatis 18 (Coast Southwest, Inc., Medolla Iberia) (Olive oil polyglyceryl-6 esters, sodium stearoyl lactylate, cetearyl)
4.00

Phase D

Kisameet Glacial Clay (Coast Southwest, Kisameet)
12.00

Phase E

Lavender Oil (Lavandula angustifolia (lavender) flower oil)
1.00

Astaderm 200 (Coast Southwest) (Porphyridium polysaccharide)
2.00

Sharomix Amplify AM25 (Coast Southwest, Sharon Laboratories) (Phenoxyethanol, chlorophenesin, caprylyl glycol, didecyldimonium chloride)
0.70

Procedure

Phase A – In main vessel, begin mixing. Titrate the water to the desired pH and begin heating the solution to 149-158°F (65-70°C). Add the Endinol SCS slowly at 113-122°F (45-50°C) to prevent clumps and agglomerates from forming. Continue heating to 149-158°F (65-70°C). Phase B – In a separate vessel mix phase B and begin heating to 149-158°F (65-70°C). Phase C – Add phase C to phase B at 113-122°F (45-50°C) and continue heating to 149-158°F (65- 70°C). When both phases reach temperature, slowly add phase BC to phase A. Increase speed as needed but avoid introducing air as much as possible. Phase D – While maintaining temperature, slowly add phase D to phase ABC. The solution will appear discontinuous at first; allow to wet out completely until uniform. Once batch is completely uniform, discontinue heat and allow the batch to cool to 122-131°F (50-55°C). Phase E – Add phase E to the desired pH range and continue to cool to 104°F (40°C). Transfer the mixture to holding vessel and allow to congeal for 24 hrs.